Christmas is just around the corner, or so brands would have you believe. The turkey-flavoured crisps and snowflake-shaped chocolates seem to creep onto supermarket shelves earlier every year.

I love Christmas as much as the next person. I’ll go all out for Christmas markets, decorating the tree, ice skating and secret Santa. I’ll buy the Baileys and make mince pies and won’t settle for anything less than all the trimmings on Christmas Day. I love that everything smells of cinnamon and fir pines and am partial to a glass of mulled wine. I cannot, however, stand the obsession with giving every food a “festive twist”.

This Christmas-ification of anything the marketers can get their hands on has sadly already begun. Greggs will be offering their “festive bake” again this year with a new vegan option; puff pastry filled with “Quorn mycoprotein pieces, sage and onion stuffing, a vegan bacon crumb and sage & cranberry sauce”.