Reaction Contributor
Saturday, 16 May 2020
There is a fascination with what makes a restaurant tick. It is probably prompted by the surfeit of TV cookery …
Continue reading "Dirt review – Bill Buford’s journeys in French cuisine"
By Bruce Palling
Friday, 10 April 2020
Alexander Kinglake warns the reader in the preface to Eothen (1844), his travel classic, that it is quite superficial in …
Continue reading "Lost Classic – Alexander Kinglake’s Eothen"
By Bruce Palling
Saturday, 29 February 2020
A generation ago, there were no three-star Michelin restaurants located in hotels. No one ever explained why not – it …
Continue reading "Making a mark – Alain Ducasse and Romain Meder at the Plaza-Athénée"
By Bruce Palling
Saturday, 8 February 2020
We can all agree that London has an unrivalled array of cuisines from every corner of the globe with numerous …
Continue reading "Merlin Labron-Johnson’s Osip – taking world-class cooking beyond the M25"
By Bruce Palling
Saturday, 18 January 2020
Nearly a century and a half ago, Walter Scott, a hawker in Providence, Rhode Island, converted a horse-drawn freight wagon …
Continue reading "An American diner in Paris"
By Bruce Palling
Saturday, 11 January 2020
In 2014, Claridge’s spent considerable time and money before selecting Simon Rogan to open Fera as their flagship restaurant. A …
Continue reading "Daniel Humm’s Davies and Brook – Mayfair haute cuisine of the highest standard"
By Bruce Palling
Saturday, 21 December 2019
While travelling in the Himalayas, I reluctantly allowed a persistent fortune teller to make his pronouncements. After cursorily inspecting my …
Continue reading "Why modernist cuisine will be off the menu in 2020"
By Bruce Palling
Saturday, 23 November 2019
What makes a meal memorable? There are so many factors – the location, the company around the table, the wines …
Continue reading "Food: The world is Daniel Calvert’s oyster"
By Bruce Palling
Saturday, 16 November 2019
A little more than 30 years ago, a simple canteen opened in Hammersmith providing Italian-inspired lunches for an architectural practice …
Continue reading "Down by the Riverside"
By Bruce Palling
