Bruce Palling

Reaction Contributor

Saturday, 8 August 2020

When in Rome…

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By Bruce Palling

Saturday, 13 June 2020

Closure of the Ledbury is a culinary catastrophe

Just when the fine dining fraternity thought after months of gloom, there were some glimmers of hope for the future, …

By Bruce Palling

Saturday, 16 May 2020

Dirt review - Bill Buford's journeys in French cuisine

There is a fascination with what makes a restaurant tick. It is probably prompted by the surfeit of TV cookery …

By Bruce Palling

Friday, 10 April 2020

Lost Classic - Alexander Kinglake's Eothen

Alexander Kinglake warns the reader in the preface to Eothen (1844), his travel classic, that it is quite superficial in …

By Bruce Palling

Saturday, 29 February 2020

Making a mark - Alain Ducasse and Romain Meder at the Plaza-Athénée

A generation ago, there were no three-star Michelin restaurants located in hotels. No one ever explained why not – it …

By Bruce Palling

Saturday, 8 February 2020

Merlin Labron-Johnson's Osip - taking world-class cooking beyond the M25

We can all agree that London has an unrivalled array of cuisines from every corner of the globe with numerous …

By Bruce Palling

Saturday, 18 January 2020

An American diner in Paris

Nearly a century and a half ago, Walter Scott, a hawker in Providence, Rhode Island, converted a horse-drawn freight wagon …

By Bruce Palling

Saturday, 11 January 2020

Daniel Humm's Davies and Brook - Mayfair haute cuisine of the highest standard

In 2014, Claridge’s spent considerable time and money before selecting Simon Rogan to open Fera as their flagship restaurant. A …

By Bruce Palling

Saturday, 21 December 2019

Why modernist cuisine will be off the menu in 2020

While travelling in the Himalayas, I reluctantly allowed a persistent fortune teller to make his pronouncements. After cursorily inspecting my …

By Bruce Palling