Bayreuth is not all Wagner. Norse Gods, heaving bosomed Valkyrie, magic swords, filched rings, Rhine Maidens, Val and sidekick Halla may all strut their Gesammkunstwerk stuff (note: pretentious use of Wagner’s peculiar spelling of his term for the complete artwork that was his Ring Cycle) all they like in that famous Festival Temple on the hill. It is a totemic, annual pagan ritual.