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Just when the fine dining fraternity thought after months of gloom, there were some glimmers of hope for the future, there was a shock announcement. While many London restaurants were talking of tentative re-openings in the Summer or outdoor dining, the Ledbury chose this moment to lay off its staff and go into, if not actual closure, indefinite hibernation. I have trouble actually taking this in. When I reflect on all of the meals I have consumed in the past decade at the most renowned restaurants on every continent, I certainly had the most pleasure from the many hours I spent at The Ledbury. I appreciate that in the sum of things, there are currently more profound issues to be shocked about, but for devotees of haute cuisine, game and fine wine, this is about as bad as it gets.