Food for Thought: Aji Akokomi

The thought of opening a restaurant in the midst of a pandemic would make most of us break out in a cold sweat. For entrepreneurs such as Aji Akokomi, it has meant a tough year of pivoting and perseverance in the face of such obstacles. Between the first and second lockdown, the British-Nigerian restaurateur opened his fine-dining West African restaurant ‘Akoko’ in Fitzrovia, London. No lockdown, great or small, would stop Akokomi from pursuing his lifelong dream of opening a space to showcase the culinary depth and diversity of West African cuisine. 

“It’s been very, very difficult,” Akokomi admits. “Even before the pandemic, we didn’t think we could do it as no one seemed to think our restaurant would be a viable business. But, we were so passionate about the project that we kept going. Of course, it’s been a struggle, but we take it day by day and are so lucky to have received the support we have done throughout.”

Akokomi has that coveted quality that puts anyone in his company at immediate ease. With his sparkling charm and Cheshire Cat smile, he shares anecdotes from his childhood in Nigeria with his vast and lively family. He recalls the special occasions that marked his youth, and how food was always at the centre. “I suspect going to all those events growing up kickstarted my love for food,” he says. “My mother also owned a bakery where I sometimes worked, so I was always surrounded by people cooking and baking.”  

Akokomi’s CV is a far cry from that of a typical restaurateur. He first took a Master’s in business administration at Bradford University before going to work in IT management in London. It was when he met his wife that Akokomi gained a whole new appreciation for hosting: “We love to entertain friends; to have people from every culture sat around the table, treating them to delightful food.” After realising his love for entertaining and impressing guests with food, Akokomi’s wife turned to him one day and asked: “Why don’t you start up something here? Why don’t you go out and make something unique?”

To kickstart the idea, Akokomi took a 10-week course at Leiths School of Food and Wine. In his spare time, he would test recipes collected from around Nigeria and passed down through generations. “I started trying out recipes from my mother, my grandmother, from my aunties, from my friends,” he says. After travelling back to Nigeria to learn more about traditional cooking of staple dishes like: plantain, jollof rice, hearty soups, and spicy stews, Akokomi started working on the philosophy of Akoko, and how it would be a culinary experience different from the rest.  

“I always ask myself, ‘what’s my why?’ and my ‘why’ is to showcase the brilliance and diversity of West African food, right in the heart of Central London,” Akokomi proudly says. “I want people to see the beauty and the excellence of the cuisine, and most importantly, I want to honour the heritage of the cuisine and give kudos to all the cooks back home that I met, cooks not just from Nigeria, but across Ghana and Senegal.”

Akokomi is quick to clarify that a trip to Akoko is not just about West African food. It’s about West African fine dining. Akokomi works alongside the Head Chef Theo Clench to add a Michelin-star level contemporary twist. According to Akokomi, the inspiration behind Akoko’s menu revolves around “fire, umami and heat”. “It’s the chilli, the spices, the fermented seeds, the explosion of umami and concentrated bouillon that underpins West African food and the flavours at Akoko.” 

A typical menu at Akoko includes everything from grilled plantain with cashew cream and spiced nuts to Ghanian yam croquette, Guinness bread and yassa butter, Smokey jollof rice with goat and cashew cream, BBQ quail yassa, and burnt uda cream and goat milk ice cream with Ghanian cocoa butter and a caramel tuile.

As well as the vibrant cuisine, the interiors of Akoko are captivating. The restaurant basks in a warmish glow and the colour scheme is reminiscent of the dry pinkish-brownish heat of the sub-Saharan region. “The vision I had was to show something beautiful and African,” Akokomi declares. “I thought to myself, how can I create my Africa in London? On my travels, I found lots of inspiration in the villages – the hot reds, the cool greens, the warmth of clay, and so I wanted everything in the restaurant to be inspired by the village, from the walls to the wood.”

The terracotta clay-walled restaurant was conceived by London-based interiors firm René Dekker Design, and the walls feature artworks by the contemporary African artist Niyi Olangunji. Akoko also has bespoke ceramics inspired by the West African ‘Queen of Pottery’ Ladi Kwali and the pottery by the Nupe people of Nigeria – a true homage to the wealth and creativity of West Africa.

On the matter of Akokomi’s last ever supper, he firmly remains a loyal devotee to all-things Akoko. For a starter, he chooses the Akoko Veal cheeks bofrot (a Ghanian savoury doughnut with a veal cheek stuffing, dusted with sorghum and beetroot spice). For his main, he chooses the Akoko Crab Miyan Tausche (crab meat, ehuru spice and smoked pumpkin) and for his pudding, he picks Akoko’s BBQ pineapple and ogiri ice cream. As for a drink? A Zobo (a hibiscus cocktail) – one they offer in-house.

What does Akokomi want diners to leave thinking once they re-enter his doors on the 19 May? “I want them to enjoy the friendliness of West Africa, the fantastic hospitality we offer, the lively music and the high-end West African food that is as delicious as it is innovative,” he says. “Most importantly, I want them to leave thinking when they will next come back.” 

Akoko is taking reservations from the 19th of May.

Akoko’s Jollof Rice
Serves 8

Ingredients

300g Long grain rice
275g Red bell peppers 
30g Tomato paste 
7g Hot sauce 
120g Red onions 
28g Garlic 
28g Ginger 
5g White peppercorns
3g Thyme powder 
3g Curry powder 
3 Bay leaves
10g Butter 
70g Grapeseed oil 
300g Meat stock 
10g Kosher salt – Diamond Crystal

Method 

Wash and cut the red bell peppers, transfer to a blender or food processor and puree until completely smooth. In a wide saucepan, over fire, add the peppers so as to completely reduce. 

Thoroughly wash the rice, till the water runs clear. This is an important step as washing the rice properly removes the starch and the rice will cook without lumping together 

Mash the garlic and ginger into a paste using a pestle and mortar.

Halve, peel and thinly slice the onions, heat the butter in the pan and add the onions and salt. Cover with a damp cartouche and the lid and sweat the onions until softened, around 10-15 minutes. 

Remove the lid and cartouche, add the oil, turn up the heat to medium and add the garlic ginger paste, white peppercorns, curry powder and salt, stir very well and allow to cook for 5 minutes. 

Add the tomato paste, reduced bell peppers and hot sauce, stir very well and allow to cook for 5 minutes. Add the meat stock and bay leaves, stir very well and allow to cook for about 10 minutes. 

Now add the rice and stir very well, cover the lid to steam for about 30 minutes. Open the lid and stir gently, add the butter, cover and allow to cook for another 25 minutes. 

Remove from fire and discard the bay leaves, allow to rest for 10 minutes.