Tucked down a side street off Regent’s Canal in Bethnal Green lies an unassuming warehouse with a double-height ceiling, low-hanging lights and a “borderless” kitchen that flows seamlessly through the space. Bundles of dried flowers punctuate the room, and terracotta ceramics thaw the otherwise cold-steel building. One could easily mistake this for a Scandi-inspired showroom, but this is something far more memorable.

This is home to The Water House Project – a hybrid restaurant that coalesces the atmosphere of a supper club with fine dining to pioneer a concept of “social fine dining.” Through a nine-course (or six-course) tasting menu and accompanying wines, the chef-patron Gabriel Waterhouse steers his diners on an odyssey through modern British cuisine.