How South America became a major player in the wine trade
South American reds are making a big impact on the domestic and international wine trade. Their Malbecs and Carmeneres have established a definitive style on the opposite side of the Andes and have become the signature wines their adopted country has to offer.
Originating from the same part of south west France, and with a lineage so ‘aristocratic’ that they are both still included in the six grape varieties authorised for use in Bordeaux; Malbec and Carmenere would usually be added in small percentages to the typical ‘Bordeaux blend’.
Planting of the widely popular Carmenere waned in southwest France from the nineteenth century onwards, due to its susceptibility to vine diseases and issues with not reaching full ripeness. Only recently has it seen a limited reintroduction as, due to climate change, it is country is now hot enough.
The demise of Malbec in Bordeaux is a much more recent story. After a severe frost devastated much of the established rootstock in the mid 1950s, the vignerons decided not to replant. A saving grace for French Malbec was that, although affected by the same frost, producers in nearby Cahors took the decision to replant their damaged vines and have since established a name for a robust, tannic style using the variety.
It was their fortunate transportation to the other side of the world that has been their making though. Both have flourished in South America, principally due to the climatic conditions. Carmenere benefits from the increased and sustained heat of Chile’s Central Valley, and Malbec from being planted at altitude in western Argentina’s Mendoza province.
Nowadays, these grapes are finding themselves in the fine wine price range more and more often.
South America signalled to the wine world that serious wine could be made there with the 2003 vintage of Carmen de Peumo, a wine from Chile made almost entirely from Carmenere. This was the first wine from South America to break into the ‘big time’ by scoring ninety seven points out of one hundred in the scoring system, designed by the US wine critic, Robert Parker (the Wine Advocate). Since then, producers such as Nicolás Catena Zapata have followed suit in Argentina, elevating the status of their Malbecs.
Most of the southern-hemisphere reds we drink in the UK are value-for-money level wines, due to the commercially competitive cost of production, even after shipping them across the world. It is this that makes ‘fine wine’ from this part of the world good value for money and a worthy buy.
South American must-try’s:
Berry Bros. & Rudd Argentinian Malbec by Pulenta, Mendoza – £12.95
Matias Riccitelli ‘Hey Malbec!’ 2019 – £12.99