After first being announced two years ago, Kol finally opened its doors in October at a spacious site, directly opposite Giorgio Locatelli in Marylebone. The theme is Modernist Mexican, which makes its name a bit of a puzzle. Kol apparently means cabbage in Judeo-Spanish (and Malay) which is odd, given that there was no sign of this humble vegetable anywhere on the menu.Lockdown or not, it has been full since the day it opened and has no dinner tables for two until 2021. The reason for this enthusiastic response is because Santiago Lastra, the Mexican chef, was project manager for René Redzepi’s Mexico Pop up in 2017, so there is a sprinkling of stardust from the leading chef of his generation.