From Provence to the Pyrenees: wines from the Languedoc

Situated a short jaunt from the France-Spain border, for those who know it the Languedoc will conjure up mental images of Cathar castles, fantastic food and generations of terrifying rugby front-row forwards from Perpignan, Béziers and Toulouse that have played for the French national team.

This region of the country’s deep south is just under 16,500 square miles in the bottom third of France and enjoys a Mediterranean climate of mild winters and hot summers. On average, there are just over 2,000 sunshine hours per year.

This sunny weather is paired with a “Tramontane” wind that blows in from the west-north-west. The wind is channelled between the Black Mountain in the north and the Pyrenees in the south and moderates the temperature on the ground to allow superb growing conditions and phenolic ripeness in the fruit.

In a neat parallel with rugby, French wine’s real “muscle” lies in this part of the country. The reds: Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault. And the whites: Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc. These wines are rich in stature, a flavour style that comes from the grapes’ structure and the consistent sun that shines on the plants.

One exception of note is the wine from the coastal town of Pinet, made from the Piquepoul grape. One of the oldest grapes in the region, this white wine draws its character from the Mediterranean; the great body of water locking in freshness and salinity that is just impossible to obtain inland due to the lack of cooling sea breezes.

For generations, Languedoc wines have been the staple “vin de table” in French households and even formed part of the daily ration for French soldiers during both world wars. To satisfy the cheap price point and huge volume necessary, quality suffered, and much of what was, and still is, produced in the region is of “every day” drinking quality. This image of mass production undersells the wines of significant quality and stature produced in the Languedoc.

Arguably the most significant producer of quality from the Languedoc is Mas Dumas Gassac, whose wines have garnered international acclaim and have reached cult status in some quarters. By embracing smaller yields, biodiversity and an ecological philosophy of minimum machinery in the vineyards, the owners have created a wine referred to as the “Grand Cru of the Midi”. They make the point that “top-drawer” quality is possible if time and care are taken.

In my experience, there are plenty of other areas within this large region that can deliver a super glass of wine too – here are a few I’d recommend:

The rosé: Gérard Bertrand ‘Côte des Roses’ Rosé 2020, Languedoc – £12.99 at Majestic

The white: Picpoul De Pinet Les Canots – £8.49 from Waitrose

The red: Domaine Laborie, Pays d’Oc 2020 – £6.25 from the Wine Society