It’s time to stop shunning Chardonnay

Famous beyond the realms of wine drinkers and recognised for its qualities among those who enjoy wine, Chardonnay is one of the superstars of the wine world.

An “international” variety, Chardonnay originated as Meroué in the Levant area of the middle east. The Lebanese are to thank for its early nurturing and the crusader knights for its transport to Europe, specifically France. 

With its spiritual home being Burgundy, in the central-east region of France, it is the Côte de Beaune sub-region that arguably produces wines of the very finest quality. 

To those who value it, areas such as Montrachet and Meursault are revered on a par with the more northerly but equally beautiful Chablis wines. At the more day-to-day end wines such as Macon-Villages and St Veran from the Maconnais area of the region are widely enjoyed.

At the other end of the world and on a completely different scale, Chardonnay is grown successfully in South Eastern Australia in “industrial” levels of production. 

From the unquestionably aristocratic Burgundy to the significant volumes from Australia, Chile and the USA, the grape has been able to establish itself in everything from traditionally cool to almost tropical climates. It is a grape that is delightfully easy to grow or, as the revered Australian wine guru Brian Crozer once said, “the most forgiving variety of all”.

While it has been said that Sauvignon Blanc is “made in the vineyard” as its personality and flavour reflects the soil it was grown, Chardonnay responds well to whatever style the winemaker wishes to give it. This adaptability is both to its merit and detriment.

While the exquisitely subtle and balanced oak flavours of Meursault (my personal favourite) are highly prized, there was a time when winemakers in Australia were exploiting Chardonnay’s responsiveness with the mercenary use of cheap flavouring to give it an “oaky” note, which ultimately became its downfall. 

This misuse of oak flavouring is now largely a thing of the past and if a winemaker chooses to use this technique they will strive to find balance rather than dominance with this flavour.

Sadly the negativity around the use of oak persists, and when I present Chardonnay at events, I often still get hugely derogatory comments from those who still wear the cliched “ABC – anything but chardonnay” badge with pride. Very seldomly have these people tried a modern version and are harking back to a taste last found in the unbalanced wines of the 1990s.

Superb quality Chardonnay can be found all over the world, from New Zealand to California, but look out for Italian regions of Alto Adige or Lombardy. In Alto Adige you will find elegant modern cool climate wines with the most judicious use of oak, producing creamy lip-smacking palates with clean acidity and in Lombardy, sparkling wines that rival champagne for quality and value for money.

The Italian: 2019 Alois Lageder Alto Adige Lehen Sauvignon Blanc | Winebuyers – £26.21 from Winebuyers.com

The American: Au Bon Climat Chardonnay 2018, Santa Barbara County – Majestic Wine – £21.99 from Majestic

The Burgundian: Buy Domaine Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Vieilles Vignes 2016 – VINVM – £54.55 from Vinvm.co.uk