The Great Escape – The coastline of Croatia

Since Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, the country has become one of the most in-demand holiday destinations, with the number of sun-seekers heading for the Dalmatian Coast increasing yearly. Famed for its pebbled peaches, crystal-clear seascapes, national parks and lakes and its gargantuan mountains, it’s easy to see why.

In Split, gawp at Diocletian’s Palace and its labyrinth-like network of streets that were carved from the former Roman Palace of Emperor Diocletian. Tourists can cosplay characters from Game of Thrones and wonder amongst the ruins, museums and cathedrals beside Split’s thriving Riveria. It is this duality of antiquity and modernity that makes Split one of Croatia’s most charming cities. 

Then, catch a ferry to Hvar and visit the Stari Grad plain, an ancient Greek agricultural landscape where olives and grapes are still harvested in a 2,000-year-old tradition. While in recent years, Hvar may have become renowned for its wild nightlife, it is also a haven for those seeking sun (there are 2,760 hours of sunshine per year), fresh seafood, and a swim in the turquoise waters of the Adriatic sea.

So if you’re after an escape that combines ancient history with island life, fly into Split and catch the catamaran over to Hvar to experience the best of both worlds.

What to do in Split and Hvar

The most staggering monument within the walled town and right by the waterfront promenade of Split is Diocletian’s Palace — a 4th-century Roman structure built by the then-ruler Emperor Diocletian who wanted a palace where he could spend his retirement years. Threaded within the city’s fabric, the Palace was built from lustrous white stone from the nearby island of Brâc. Money was no object for the emperor Diocletian who imported marble from Italy and Greece and columns and 12 sphinxes from Egypt. There is also the octagonal Cathedral of St Dominus, built as a mausoleum for Diocletian, which is one of the best-preserved ancient Roman buildings today.

For fans of Game of Thrones, Diocletian’s Palace is known as part of Mereen, one of the city-states conquered by Daenerys Targaryen. Several scenes were filmed in the catacombs and underground hallways that remain intact underneath the Palace. 

Book a boat trip

A lot of the hidden treasures of Hvar island are only accessible by boat, so you should take a day to explore all the little bays and beaches that encircle the sun-drenched island. If you have a boat license, hire a boat you can drive on your own. Equally, if you don’t know your bow from your stern, hire a skipper from Mario Rent who will take you on a curated tour with snorkels and an ice box full of local beer. A boat trip wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Stiniva (voted the most beautiful beach in Europe), the legendary Blue cave and Pritiscina, a fantastic beach hidden between the rocks. 

On your way back to Hvar, head for the Pakleni islands for a late lunch. There are several restaurants and bars to pick from, such as the pricier Laganini beach bar and fish house or an authentic restaurant called Dioniz, which has a limited menu but is revered for its lamb dish and eggplant pie.

Discover Hvar’s history through wine

Book a tour with an expert to discover more about Hvar’s 2400-year-story through its wines and indigenous grapes. Here, you can visit the vineyards of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Stari Grad Plain, where wine production methods have changed little since the Ancient Greeks arrived with vines from the island of Paros.

After that, your tour guide will transport you to the Roman times and the vineyards of the Pakleni islands before a tasting in a basement replica of Diocletian’s Palace. Then it is an introduction to the Venetian period and the Great Rebellion of 1510-1514 on Hvar before visiting the oldest Plavac Mali vineyard in the world.

Where to eat

Black Pepper Restaurant

Head for the centre of Hvar town and up a backstreet alleyway to discover Black Pepper — a family-owned restaurant which serves traditional fare with a contemporary twist. Working with local sommeliers for the wine, fishermen, and farmers with top-quality ingredients, the menu includes monkish brodetto with dried figs, polenta, oregano, and parsley; marinated wild boar with homemade sweet and sour sauce, baked potato with prosciutto, rosemary and Dalmatian dessert wine.

Fig

Nestled in a Gothic courtyard within the beating heart of the 4th century Diocletian Palace in Split is the restaurant Fig. Combining flavours from India, America, and Mexico with local ingredients, the breakfast menu at Fig includes steam-poached eggs in a spicy sauce of tomatoes, onions and peppers with sour cream to a main and side menu of fig and farm cheese flatbread, smoky pulled pork with red beans, chimichurri potatoes, grilled lepinja flatbread and sour cream and lime and a candied bacon, apple and blue cheese salad.

The Fisherman’s House in Sveti Klement, Hvar

The largest of the Pakleni Otoci islands, Sveti Klement is situated along the southern point of the island of Hvar. It is a picturesque fishermen’s village with around 15 houses, a little chapel and an unpretentious family-run restaurant called The Fisherman’s House. All of the freshly-caught fish is grilled over vine embers before being seasoned by dipping rosemary branches in homemade olive oil and garnishing the fish with it. There are also appetizers such as salted anchovies, tuna pate, octopus salad and fried zucchini. Make sure to try the speciality of the house, brodetto à la Tonči, a fish stew of conger eel, red scorpion fish, langouste or lobster with tomatoes, onions and wine.

Where to stay

Hotel Briig in Split

Located in the centre of Split, just a fifteen-minute walk from Diocletian’s Palace and steps away from the popular Bačvice Beach is the eye-catching Briig Boutique Hotel. Opened in 2020, Briig is the city’s first design hotel and is built as a six-storey irregular geometric white cube with asymmetrical lines. 
Designed by Damir Rako with posters by Boris Bućan, graphics by Julius Kniger and installations by Aleksandar Srnec, Briig is a sight to behold. The hotel has 59 spacious rooms with views of the Adriatic Sea to the south and a view of the green park to the north. On the rooftop, there is a pool and a panoramic sea view as well as an adjacent spa, sauna, massage room and small fitness room. 

Riva Marina in Hvar

Overlooking the waterfront promenade in Hvar Town, the Riva Marina is one of the best-placed boutique hotels on the Adriatic coast. Newly revamped this year, the Riva Marina (previously known as the Hvar Yacht Harbour Hotel) has 50 rooms and suites that are inspired by both its prime sea-front setting and its 100-year-old heritage. The hotel also includes a new terrace restaurant called BB Social Bar & Kitchen and boasts one of the most enviable terraces in Hvar for people-watching the rich and glamorous as they spill out from the mega-yachts parked just ahead.