The New Zealand Sauvignon shortage

It is well publicised that New Zealand coped with the pandemic in an admirable way, enabling a return to (almost) normal life, much quicker that the vast majority of the rest of the world. Unfortunately, Mother Nature has dealt them a blow that will hit their wine business on an economic level and may take longer to recover from. 

It is as if fate decided that due to success in managing Covid-19, in a perverse idea of restoring balance, it delivered such poor weather during the growing cycle that the volume of viable fruit was reduced by 30 per cent of a normal national harvest. What is even more concerning is that I have heard from one of the producers that I deal with professionally, that the harvest return from Marlborough is as bad as 50 per cent down on last year. When over 90 per cent of what we drink from New Zealand is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, the impact of this cannot be understated.

To give some perspective, a report from the New Zealand Institute of Economic Research (NZIER) confirmed the wine industry’s importance to Marlborough; it represents economic output worth NZ$571 million, and accounts for one in every four jobs in this region of South Island. The engine room of the Kiwi wine trade, at a time when they could be preparing themselves to capitalise on their biggest market emerging from lockdown, just won’t have the juice to satisfy demand.

The worry is that there are a plethora of tasty Sauvignon Blanc wines made in other parts of the world waiting in the wings, from South Africa, Chile and America. This is notwithstanding the French and their world famous Sancerre and Pouilly Fumes from the Loire and more “everyday” wines from the Languedoc.

Ironically, New Zealand’s saving grace might rest on something a South African winemaker once said to me: “Sauvignon Blanc is made in the vineyard”. While most other grape varieties can be tugged and teased into a particular shape by using certain vinification techniques, the particular style of Sauvignon Blanc comes from where it’s grown and the wise winemaker does not try to interfere with this.

New Zealand’s Sauvignon popularity comes from its juicy tropical fruit opulence, married to a refreshing acidity; a buxom style not successfully replicated anywhere else. This is what I’m certain will keep their drinkers loyal.  Their wine has always been “reassuringly expensive” and those who drink it likely won’t blanche at a price increase. There may be a small departure from New Zealand Sauvignon in the short term, but thankfully the migration will not be permanent.

If the worst does happen, here are some “All Blacks” alternatives to Sauvignon Blanc:

Kumeu Hand Harvested Pinot Gris, Auckland 2019 

Floral, textured & elegant – £11.90 

Sacred Hill Reserve Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay 2017

Citrus, vanilla complex – £12.50 

Mt. Difficulty Bannockburn Pinot Noir, Otago 2018

Ripe cherry, oak & bright – £25.99