Wish We Were Here: La Rioja
After a year of being locked down in the same place, there are some places I would rather not see again. But in a more positive frame of mind, I want to travel again to the great wine regions of the world.
Rioja, on the southern edge of the Basque country in northern Spain, is the first place I want to return to. Sitting at the base of the Sierra Cantabria, the region is as beautiful as it is agricultural. Neatly bisected by the Elbro river, its rich soils produce many types of vegetables and grapes to make the world-famous wine.
I would immediately head for the regional capital of Logroño, traditionally a stop for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. Echoes of this ecumenical past are apparent in the multitude of churches in the city. Still, the Cathedral of Santa María la Redonda, with its Baroque towers, wins the beauty contest.
With so many interesting and picturesque streets to investigate, my love of a wander is always satisfied here. Outside the church, there is no better place to enjoy a preprandial glass of Rioja Blanco in the tree-lined square.
A short stroll south from the cathedral lies an experience I particularly pine for; the Calle del Laurel, a street brimming with Pintxos bars. Basque culture centres on food, and while this form of tapas is not as complex as the Michelin-starred gastronomic excellence found in San Sebastian; it is an experience hard to beat.
The evening should always involve a leisurely amble up the street with a glass of wine and a pintxo at whichever bar takes your fancy. Beer is served, but to properly immerse yourself, choose a Rioja Crianza, the youngest of the aged reds served with a slight chill.
Things to do:
Visit a winery
The city sits on the border of two high quality areas of wine production – Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. Many vineyards are within a short car ride of the city and it is a matter of personal preference as to which one you approach. These producers have tasting rooms where a representative of the winery will be delighted to take you through a number of their wines.
Take a Pintxos guided tour
If the thought of investigating this local food intimidates you, there are guides available to take you through the multiple bars that line Calle de Laurel. The locals will curate a journey along the street, sampling foods, with a glass of Crianza to accompany each one.
Take an architectural walking tour
This is the best way to investigate the city’s history as a stop for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. Guides take you from the walls of the Revellín and the West Gate (the only lasting remains of the medieval fortifications of the city) to the fascinating Museo de Rioja and the beautiful cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda.
