Wish We Were Here: Minaret of Jam
Of all the places that I would like to see, none appeals to my imagination and love of history as much as the Minaret of Jam. The UNESCO world heritage site located in western Afghanistan is one of the most remote architectural marvels in the world. Now that the United States has decided to remove its troops from Afghanistan, the precarious political balance of power between the government and Taliban is likely to implode. It should make my dream of voyaging to that secluded country all the more difficult, but the unsettling undulations of regional politics does little to dampen my desire to visit that distant land.
Built approximately a decade before Saladin defeated the crusaders on the Horns of Hattin, it is the last monument to the Ghurid empire, a state that stretched across Afghanistan, Iran and India. The dazzling detail of Koranic inscriptions and geometric reliefs are an observable testament to the beguiling sophistication of an extinct culture. The persistent existence of this exquisite minaret is awe-inspiring evidence of the Ghurid’s advanced powers of construction, which has survived its creators by more than eight centuries. Its historical value is therefore deemed almost inestimable by historians of the region.
Archaeologists have determined that the minaret potentially stands where the former capital of the Ghurid empire once thrived. It is a site that is said to have been lost for centuries, known as Firozkoh or the city of the Turquoise Mountain. Where steep sandy climes and barren miles now range, mosques, markets, royal residences and hundreds of homesteads would have buzzed with human activity. Save for the babble of rivers, a silence today lours over this vanished city. It is a silence that I have always yearned to drink in.
Although it is situated in a highly dangerous part of the world, the perils of the place have arguably ensured its preservation. However, structural weaknesses have started to threaten the integrity of the minaret and many experts are now concerned that the tower is in jeopardy of suddenly collapsing. If this was to happen, the world would lose one of the most beautiful venues of worship ever built. Verging on the confluence of the Jam and Hari river, the azure waters that wash the ochre banks, have been steadily eroding the base of the building. Teams of curators have made regular trips over the last ten years to appraise the state of the minaret and an international effort has been conducted to verify the condition of the column.
When I first learned of the Minaret of Jam, of its remoteness, beauty, providence and perfection, I was reminded of those lines from Shelley’s Ozymandis: “its sculptor well those passions read/which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things.”
Things to do:
Arrive by moonlight
Were I to brave the hazards of the journey, I would wish to reach the minaret at night. I would quietly climb the spiralling steps and whisper the words of the muezzin under a crescent moon. Once the sun commands the sky, I would spend the day admiring the intricacy of the minaret’s design and examining the ailments of its incredible architecture. It is something I am determined to see.
Meet the locals
Despite decades of conflict, the Afghan people are famed for their hospitality. Those I have spoken to in the UK always emphasise an inherent inclination that most Afghans have to accommodate travellers. Though the Shahrak District is sparsely populated, I would endeavour to meet as many locals as possible. In the company of a good translator, conversation would be the ultimate aim of journeying to Jam. I want to learn their perception of the West and how they believe the international community can help curate this local treasure.
Bring home a hand-woven Shahrak rug
The nearby village of Jam suffers from severe economic, agricultural and security issues and few goods are manufactured in the vicinity. However, a Shahrak rug woven in the village of Jam would be a wonderful souvenir.
