There is a point in every crisis when the magnitude of what is unfolding is brought home. In the UK currently, it’s pigs in blankets.

That’s right, those small sausages wrapped in bacon – a requisite, it seems, of every Christmas meal. Forget the turkey, goose, sprouts, roast potatoes, parsnips, bread sauce, stuffing, cranberry, pudding – it’s pigs in blankets that count. So much so that their threatened absence this coming season might just be the clincher in bringing this government to its senses.