The Eternal City is still a world-class centre of European culture

 The “Eternal City”, the “Capital of the World”, the “Sacred City” – all of these names have been given to the iconic city of Rome throughout its long lifetime. Over almost three millennia, from its mythical founding date in 753 BC, Rome has captured the imagination of wayfaring writers, romantic poets and itinerant painters. “Rome,” the medieval artist Giotto di Bondone wrote, “is the city of echoes, the city of illusions, and the city of yearning.”

This yearning seems to be almost as eternal as the city itself – in more recent times, its grand ancient monuments, such as the Colosseum, and its picturesque streets have also formed the backdrop for Hollywood films. The fantasy of the Roman escape was captured for generations by the masterpiece of 1950s cinema, Roman Holiday, starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn.

Despite the wealth of history and culture associated with the city, however, it has come to be viewed less favourably in many circles. British media coverage since 2015 has quite rightly highlighted the extent of urban dilapidation and often inadequate public transport. Rubbish has also become a chronic problem, with graffiti and garbage getting out of control in certain parts of the city. Public sector corruption and outdated infrastructure have exacerbated these issues.

Rome is also swelteringly hot during the traditional tourist season in June and July, and its historic sites and streets can be difficult to enjoy when you are crammed amongst the thousands of wandering tourists from across the world. Once scenic streets and squares are falling into a state of decay and disrepair. As one of my Rome-enthusiast friends once said to me: “You can see that God was here at one point, but he hasn’t been back for a few centuries.”

But once you accept its roughness around the edges, there is much that can be enjoyed in the city. Despite decades of neglect, Rome is still a great centre of European culture, and one which is very easy to fall in love with. Its reputation as a city of wonders is not simply an illusion from a romanticised, faded past. Romans can equally be brusque at times, but the majority are very welcoming and will appreciate anyone who is willing to have a go at speaking some Italian, however advanced or basic it may be!

For those yearning for culture, the city has the salve for every itch you might have. Of course, there are the city’s Roman ruins, which are not to be missed. The Roman Forum and the Colosseum are classics, but I would recommend pre-booking tickets in order to avoid the queues on site. For those who are determined to visit more than a couple of historical attractions, I would recommend purchasing a Roma Pass, which provides discounts to popular attractions as well as unlimited use of Rome’s public transport within certain areas.

There are many hidden gems around the Forum. Guided tours of the Domus Aurea, the Emperor Nero’s sumptuous residence, using virtual reality headsets is a recent development worth trying. An absolute must see, one which is also neglected by most tourists who are unaware of its existence, is the Capitoline Museum. Not only does it contain many ancient Roman treasures, it also has a spectacular panoramic view of the Roman Forum, an ideal vantage point for those who don’t want to descend into the throngs of tourists in the middle of summer. The air conditioning also makes it an ideal refuge from the heat.

Another spectacular panorama of the city can be seen from the Castel Sant’Angelo which dominates the Tiber. This structure was once the mausoleum of the Emperor Hadrian, but which was subsequently turned into a papal residence during the fourteenth century. It is now open for all to see.

A trip to the Vatican City or the Sistine Chapel might be on your bucket list, but do not rule out taking an afternoon to wander through some of Rome’s smaller, but equally gorgeous churches. I would recommend visiting the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastavere, one of the oldest Churches in Rome, whose basic structure dates back to the fourth century. It is set in a beautiful square and its ornate interior is truly a sight to behold.

Hotels vary both in style and size, but those looking to be close to the historic heart of the city could stay in the Inn at the Spanish Steps, a small but charming hotel with a boutique feel to it. The location really  is its premium. With rooms from £156 per night, it is a luxurious, but very competitively priced way to enjoy a Roman getaway.

Those who want to be slightly further away from the centre and in more spacious surroundings might try the Rose Garden Palace, which in a quieter area north of the city centre, but still close to upmarket shopping districts and the spacious gardens of the Villa Borghese. Rooms here are luxurious, but also less expensive than comparable hotels nearer the city centre, with options from as little as £131 per night.

Rome is not renowned for its fine-dining, and those searching for top-end silver service will be disappointed – it is instead a city of good, hearty Italian food. This does not mean that Rome lacks for memorable dining experiences, however.

One fantastic experience for anyone desiring the best that Rome has to offer is the Inn at the Roman Forum. Not only is this a charming old hotel, it has managed to keep its traditional feel without becoming shabby or passé. You can arrive for drinks on their terrace, which has stunning views of the Roman Forum. If you decide to stay for dinner at the roof garden restaurant, you can dine and watch the sun set upon two thousand years of Roman history, from the ruins of the forum to the majestic Altare della Patria (and at a time of night when tourists are no longer disrupting the view).

At the other end of the scale is the humble but wholesome Antica Trattoria Pallotta Dal 1820, a family-run restaurant in the Piazzale Ponte Milvio. The service is, well, rather Roman – it will come when it comes, but it is worth the wait when it does. The food is also authentically Roman, and so is the atmosphere, which is always filled with local people. The portions are generous, and the dishes range from Italian favourites such as Carbonara and Gnocchi, to an array of classic Roman dishes.

For those thinking of going to Rome to watch a Rugby match in the Six Nations, this quirky little eatery is near the Stadio Olympico is worth a visit before kick-off. After the game, you should head to Harry’s Bar in the Via Vittorio Veneto for a cocktail. Its suave and sophisticated live piano bar will give you a refined taste of “la dolce vita”.

No Roman trip would be complete without a trip to one of the city’s gelaterias, and connoisseurs will not be disappointed. While in Rome you can take the opportunity to visit the city’s oldest gelateria, which has been serving customers since 1880. La gelateria Fassi, situated in the Palazzo del Fredo, which is not too far away from the Colosseum, is truly an institution and should not be passed up by anyone with a sweet tooth.

For all of these reasons, Rome and its surroundings continue to be a world-class centre of European culture. It is a lively city with much to offer for those looking to enjoy Italian cuisine and explore the wonders of an historic city. For those who are willing to press through the difficulties the city is currently facing, it still promises to be a city which you will be yearning to return to in the near future.