The “Eternal City”, the “Capital of the World”, the “Sacred City” – all of these names have been given to the iconic city of Rome throughout its long lifetime. Over almost three millennia, from its mythical founding date in 753 BC, Rome has captured the imagination of wayfaring writers, romantic poets and itinerant painters. “Rome,” the medieval artist Giotto di Bondone wrote, “is the city of echoes, the city of illusions, and the city of yearning.”
This yearning seems to be almost as eternal as the city itself – in more recent times, its grand ancient monuments, such as the Colosseum, and its picturesque streets have also formed the backdrop for Hollywood films. The fantasy of the Roman escape was captured for generations by the masterpiece of 1950s cinema, Roman Holiday, starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn.
Despite the wealth of history and culture associated with the city, however, it has come to be viewed less favourably in many circles. British media coverage since 2015 has quite rightly highlighted the extent of urban dilapidation and often inadequate public transport. Rubbish has also become a chronic problem, with graffiti and garbage getting out of control in certain parts of the city. Public sector corruption and outdated infrastructure have exacerbated these issues.
Rome is also swelteringly hot during the traditional tourist season in June and July, and its historic sites and streets can be difficult to enjoy when you are crammed amongst the thousands of wandering tourists from across the world. Once scenic streets and squares are falling into a state of decay and disrepair. As one of my Rome-enthusiast friends once said to me: “You can see that God was here at one point, but he hasn’t been back for a few centuries.”
But once you accept its roughness around the edges, there is much that can be enjoyed in the city. Despite decades of neglect, Rome is still a great centre of European culture, and one which is very easy to fall in love with. Its reputation as a city of wonders is not simply an illusion from a romanticised, faded past. Romans can equally be brusque at times, but the majority are very welcoming and will appreciate anyone who is willing to have a go at speaking some Italian, however advanced or basic it may be!
