The hidden gems of the Loire Valley
The Loire Valley is a northern French wine region that follows the eponymous river for just over 170 miles, from the port city of Nantes and Pays Nantais in the west to the town of Sancerre in the east.
Often seen as the spiritual home of the Sauvignon Blanc grape, over half the wines produced from the Loire are white, with Sancerre Blanc and Pouilly Fumé being popular and well-known styles.
Due to the long stretch of the region, there are wide variations in soil type, climate and winemaking tradition. Yet, this diversity in both grape and wine is often overlooked due to the popularity of Sauvignon Blanc. Don’t miss out on these other great wines from the Loire.
The city of Nantes is surrounded by vineyards full of the Melon de Bourgogne grape; a grape that originated in Burgundy, hence the name, but made its name in the Loire to produce the 1970s favourite, Muscadet.
Muscadet is a delightful wine, often overlooked due to connotations of yesteryear. It was the first modern vinous success story for the Loire and put the region “on the map”. The wine displays a fabulous minerality and citrus freshness that is worth revisiting.
If you’re looking for the best examples of this wine, seek out those with Muscadet Sèvre et Maine on the label — this is the largest and most important region for high-quality Muscadet. Its fresh green qualities make it a superfood pairing with the abundant seafood that you can find in this port city.
Another Loire wine that suffers from that taint of a bygone era is Vouvray — made from the Chenin Blanc, a grape variety typically associated with South Africa, where it was historically also known as Steen. It is a particularly venerable vine and has been grown in Anjou since the ninth century and was most probably taken to South Africa on the first trading ships of the Dutch East India Company in the 1650s.
This is a true chameleon of a grape and its natural acidity makes it incredibly malleable, allowing it to be shaped into almost every white style; from crisp and dry right through to the gloriously rich dessert wine expressions. The styles I would implore you to try are the sparkling Saumur or a Coteaux du Layon — an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée famed for its beautiful sweet dessert wines that can age for decades.
Coteaux du Layon Chaume 1er Cru from Lea & Sandeman – £25.95
Bouvet Ladubay ‘Saphir’ Saumur Brut (magnum) from Majestic – £32.99