Visit Bologna – Italy’s best kept secret
Bologna is Italy’s best kept secret. The capital of the Emilia-Romagna region used to be thought of as no more than a pleasant stopover between Florence and Venice. But its gastronomic clout, architectural treasures and low-key charm make Bologna the perfect antidote to the tsunami of visitors and tacky trinkets that plague Italy’s tourist meccas. It is a beautifully authentic, refined and feisty city.
Emilia-Romagna isn’t the prettiest region. Much of the countryside looks like the hillier parts of Suffolk. But its agricultural riches more than make up for it and have given rise to an acclaimed culinary tradition of which Bologna is the beating heart. The first of the city’s three nicknames is “la grassa” – the fat. Lasagne alla Bolognese, mortadella, tagliatelle al ragù, and tortellini all hail from Bologna. But if you go asking for spaghetti bolognese, locals will roll their eyes. The famous dish is actually a corruption of the humble ragù, the tomato-less, garlic-less meaty sauce which serves as a fundamental unit of cookery in the region.
In 2017, the city doubled down on its foodie credentials with a €120m food theme park, cringingly named Eataly World. Visitors can hop on tricycles to explore the sprawling, American-style 20-acre concourse, home to a dizzying plethora of food stands, restaurants, vineyards and immersive, food-themed educational installations – pitched as “rides”. But the price of its vast scale is an airport-like soullessness. All of Italy’s culinary delights are on show. But they’ve been ripped out of their natural habitat and sterilised, like a taxidermist’s butterfly collection.
Anyone who loves food enough to consider going to the theme park will know that part of the thrill of good food is in the chase. Bologna’s winding, cobbled alleyways invite exploration and chance discoveries. You’ll stumble across ancient markets heaving with produce at every turn. The Quadrilatero area is still home to the city’s medieval craft guilds. Butchers, bakers, barbers, goldsmiths and fishmongers ply their trades amidst tantalising displays of cured meats, gnarled truffles and crumbling cheeses. The Mercato di Mezzo, a renovated 19th century food hall is full of family-run eateries, grocers and wine shops. It also boasts Forno Calzolari, Bologna’s most famous bakery. If you want a bit more structure to your gorging, the Bologna Food Walking Tour offers a steady stream of delights over a full afternoon.
After stocking up on produce, the 500-year-old BYO tavern, Osteria del Sole, is the perfect place to unwind. Enjoy your food with and glass of local Pignoletto at this cosy, raucous haunt. For a snack lunch, head to Pizzeria Due Torri on Strada Maggiore for cheap, delicious pizza by the slice. For dinner, you’re spoilt for choice. One place to consider is Trattoria Anna Maria, decked out with celeb snaps and loving homages to the doting proprietress. Heaped plates of antipasti, tortelloni burro e salvia (with butter and sage) and sweet, creamy cannoli steal the show.
Bologna’s city centre is compact enough to see all the main sights on foot over a long weekend. You can buy a Citypass at any Infopoint to get around by bus – useful if you’re staying in the suburbs or wanting to venture further afield. If you’re planning on visiting at least three museums, the €25 Bologna Welcome Card is worth the investment. And don’t be afraid to visit off-season. The city’s endless porticoes give enough shelter from the elements to avoid sodden winter trudging.
If you come to Italy craving a wonky edifice, Pisa isn’t your only option. Two lurching towers – Garisenda and Asinelli – are quirky additions to Bologna’s beautiful terracotta skyline. If you’re a student, don’t climb them – it’s considered bad luck. Tourists should go for it – the panorama is sublime. One attraction for everybody is the Museo Internazionale e Biblioteca della Musica di Bologna which houses an exquisite collection of musical instruments, original scores and important historical documents. The building housing the museum – the Palazzo Sanguinetti – is a treat in itself. Gorgeous frescoes adorn the walls and a magnificent skylit staircase leads down to a sleepy, verdant courtyard.
This casual decadence isn’t a one-off. The Piazza Maggiore, the centre of the city’s political and cultural life for centuries, is surrounded by ornately decorated palazzi. The basilica of Santo Stefano is a complex of seven gorgeous churches, nested within one another like Russian dolls. And polished flagstones pave the porticoed streets in front of high-end boutiques and Milanese-style handbag emporia.
But the city’s opulence is at odds with its status as the historic heart of radical Italian socialism. Its second nickname, “la rossa” – the red – is a nod to the city’s politics as much as its clay roofs. Bologna was a commune in Roman times, a centre of industry and workers’ movements in the Middle Ages and a hub of anti-fascist resistance during the Second World War. The unashamedly named Via Stalingrado connects the centre of Bologna to its northern suburbs. Bologna’s unapologetic contrariness made it the obvious target for a right-wing bomb attack in 1980.
The city’s ancient university gives rise to its final nickname, “la dotta” – the learned. The oldest seat of learning in the Western world, whose alumni include Dante, Petrarch and Copernicus, will celebrate its 1000th birthday in a few decades’ time. Its buildings are well worth a visit. Lucky students twiddle their pens surrounded by Renaissance and Baroque splendour. The University’s Museo di Palazzo Poggi houses a magnificent and macabre collection of medical and anatomical curiosities. The liveliest bars, music venues and vibrant anti-establishment graffiti can also be found in the university district, around Via Zamboni, in shadowy colonnades and tranquil squares.
Bologna is proof that straying from the beaten track is a good idea. The city is happy to let visitors in on its secret and rewards their curiosity with a generous helping of la dolce vita.