Exiting the metro station ‘8 mai 1945’ (Victory in Europe Day) in La Courneuve, a tough working-class district in the north of Paris, you can’t miss the new market hall looking onto the neighbourhood’s central area, le quartier de quatres routes. So called because its focal point is a very busy roundabout with junctions to the north, south, east and west. With its garish, multicoloured façade, it looks bright and bold. It was built by the town council and opened in 2018 to modernise the area’s large market and free up space in the narrow surrounding streets. A former country redoubt in the nineteenth century and early twentieth century, La Courneuve was modernised after the war. Huge estates were built rapidly in the fifties. The new market is in marked contrast to its surroundings – row on row of drab tower blocks.