For followers of the indomitable Yotam Ottolenghi, a wild goose chase around shops to hunt for obscure pots of black garlic, a packet of moghrabieh or a jar of za’atar will be a familiar frenzy. His fans, myself included, will go to extreme lengths to honour the British-Israeli chef, especially when the result is a chorus of “oooo’s” when you present guests with a sumptuous spread of balloons of cauliflower dripping in pomegranate molasses and plates of grilled vegetables chilled by tangy labneh and adorned with sizzled chickpeas.